{"id":8374,"date":"2016-08-22T19:41:00","date_gmt":"2016-08-22T19:41:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nebulaluben.com\/?p=8374"},"modified":"2024-04-19T13:51:38","modified_gmt":"2024-04-19T13:51:38","slug":"star-wars-the-old-republic-shae-vizla-armadura-armor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nebulaluben.com\/en\/star-wars-the-old-republic-shae-vizla-armadura-armor\/","title":{"rendered":"Star Wars The Old Republic – Shae Vizla: Armor"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hi there! Today I want to talk about how I made my SWTOR
\nShae Vizla armor. I don\u2019t have step by step pictures because I didn\u2019t remember
\nto take them each time I made some progress. Anyway, I\u2019d like to write about
\nthe materials, tools and techniques I used to put everything together in case
\nit\u2019s inspiring for you.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
James Ku<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

First of all, I made the armor patterns. I like making
\npatterns for armors the same way I do them for clothing. I mainly like making
\nchestpieces this way. For the rest of pieces, I wrapped parts of my body in
\nduct tape and used the resulting shapes as a base for their armor parts.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Once I made the patterns, I drew them on 10mm thickness
\ncraft foam and, in some cases such as the gauntlets, I used 3mm PVC foam (all
\nthe white pieces are PVC foam). I first made the chestpiece using a cheap foam
\nfrom the hardware store that had some relieves on the back, so I found it
\ndifficult to glue some fasteners. The rest of the armor is made using a high
\ndensity and flat on both sides eva foam from Suministros Cosplay<\/a> and it worked
\nsuper nicely. They have a high quality foam that requires less effort in
\npreparing it for painting and gives it more durability. <\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

I cut all the pieces using my heat knife<\/a> and I also used
\nseveral heads to carve relieves such as the belt lines, holes, etc.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

To give it volume and relief, I used different thicknesses foam
\n(mainly 2, 5 and 10mm) depending on the design. I glued the smallest parts with
\ncianocrylate and the bigger ones using contact cement. I made a stupid mistake
\nwhile making this armor: I first glued everything together, then I applied heat<\/a>
\nto seal the material so, while heating everything, some parts got slightly
\nwarped and I had to fix them and glue some edges again. So from now on I\u2019ll
\nheat seal the foam before even cutting it to make sure they\u2019ll eventually keep
\ntheir shape.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

I used epoxi glue to attach the zippers to my leg armors.
\nThis glue is fantastic to join fabrics and foam. It also works pretty well joining
\nfoam, but it takes long to cure, so it\u2019s not very practical.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

I also sanded some edges and relieves.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

I also used acrylic filler and sanded it in some parts of the armor. Those white blobs in some parts are filled wit it.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Once I put the armor together, I primed it using Plasti-dip<\/a>.
\nThis prpoduct sticks wonderfully to eva foam and, as every primer, it homogenizes
\nthe surface and prepares it to be painted.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

I must say Plasti-dip<\/a> is not perfect for everything. We
\nprimed the Boba Fett helmet (made of urethane resin) and armor (PVC foam) with
\nit and, after masking some parts with tape to apint them, it was difficult for
\nus to pull it off without peeling the Plasti-dip layer. It\u2019s ok, Plati-dip is
\nmade for that, but you have to take it in account if you\u2019re willing to mask it
\nin some surfaces. It worked perfectly on craft foam. I even scratched a little
\nto see if it peeled off, but it didn\u2019t. Anyway, it\u2019s good to know.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Well, after priming it was painting time! I used my airbrush
\nfor that purpose. I finally learnt to use it correctly and it works wonders.
\nThe advantages of the airbrush are that it paints evenly and you avoid those
\nhorrible brush veins. Plus, it\u2019s more precise than spray papinting, it doesn\u2019t
\nsmell and you have control over the color mixing. It\u2019s a highly recommendable
\ntool.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

I first applied a couple silver layers but I didn\u2019t like how
\nit looked, so I repainted the whole armor in gunmetal color. I don\u2019t regret the
\nfirst silver layer beccause it gave a nce base for the darker one. If I\u2019d left
\nthe armor black, it wouldn\u2019t had get that realistic metallic effect. I also
\npainted the red and golden details.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

To finish it, I distressed the armor using the dry brush
\ntechnique, applying the light silver original tone with a little loaded brush
\nfocusing on the outer edges and protrudings. I love this technique, it\u2019s really
\neasy to apply and so effective. The important thing here is using the silver
\ntone even if you\u2019re weathering other kind of metals such as gold or copper, asn
\nadding rust and dirt on the inner corners and holes. Anyway, I didn\u2019t add rust
\nto this armor because I didn\u2019t see it in the model. I just painted some reddish
\nrust on the thigh armors.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

And this is how I made it! Hope you found this useful. I\u2019ll
\ntalk about the helmet, clothes and electronics on this costume in my upcoming
\nentries.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Feel free to ask me anything in the comments or contact me
\nthrough twitter or facebook.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Thanks for reading!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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Today I want to talk about how I made my SWTOR Shae Vizla armor. 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